The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Fruit in City Gardens
Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a loose collective of growers who make vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and allotments across the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units within cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Variety
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars focusing on minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches
A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on